Friday, September 23, 2011

Photos from New Zealand by Damien 'I'm not napping anymore' Engelhardt

Bay of Islands... just lovely.

Damien in front of the end of New Zealand.

Dan in front of not-a-green-screen-it's-real-we-swear.

Dan is a geyser.

That's a green lake. Green!

The most massive Kauri tree. Really, really massive.

Don't touch boiling thermometers underwater.

A little perspective with a relatively little Kauri tree.

Thermal pools.
It's like a skyscraper.

Where the Tasman sea and the Pacific meet.


Winnie, classy as usual.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Where the hell is Kaikohe? - by Dan 'Supertramp' Jenkins


Hello all, it has been a little while hasn't it? (Insert cheeky/smiley face)

At this very moment I am sitting in a place called the 'pickled parrot' writing this blog while Damien is sleeping on a couch in front of me. What a week we have had since we last posted, although I do need to think what has happened.

...

Cool beans, we shall start from the beginning...which makes chronological sense...

So we spent a lot of our time last week in a place called Taupo. It is absolutely gorgeous and while the weather was not at its kindest the local people were. The family that hosted us (thanks Mich'ael) were lovely and we were pretty close to everything that was going on.

Exciting things:

Being invited to dinner with the welsh team.
Asking the Welsh team bus driver for directions to their public training day while the team struggled past my huge frame to get on the bus.

At the end of this week however we had our next crunch game against Manu Samoa. So as we mentally prepared ourselves (and our pampers) for what we knew was going to be a 'squeaky bum-time' game we trotted off to watch the Irish against the Wallabies.

Honestly, I knew there were a lot of Irish people in the world, randomly popping up in places that even god had forgotten existed but I did not know HOW many was in NZ. They are everywhere, seriously...everywhere. I think it can warrant being called a pandemic, or a paddydemic if you will. But all this helped to make, what I think was, the best game so far in the tournament. The night out afterwards was horrible, I won't bore you with the details but it involved $9 beers, a man called Keith and tequila.

Makes me shudder just thinking back to it...

Then came the Wales v Samoa game. Good seats, decent second half performance and Leigh Halfpenny. That is all that I want to say about that...

Now we get to the present/recent present/just gone past past. We are in a place called Paihia (I think) which is a lovely coastal town on the tip of the north Island. Went to see where the two seas meet (Pacific and Tasman) and maybe did not warrant the 3-4 hour drive there...gorgeous but just not epic enough for my liking. I thought the waves would be well big and impressive like innit.

Especially as we spent the trip back praying for a petrol station that sold diesel.

One thing that has really hammered home though is the fact that no-one lives outside of the major cities. There are just no cars on the road...only stupid dogs that have a death wish and want desperately to run in front of our car while we are doing 80kmh (we missed it thanks to Damien's spectacular swerving.)

So now we are pretty le tired. So we are taking our (respective) naps and then we shall go get some lovely sea food...

Again we shall try and upload our videos, there are quite a few more, but it is quite difficult due to the fact that we have little megabites. It means we can't upload and stuff, its all so technical so won't bore you with that either, but I definitely know what it means so whatever.

Catch you soon campers

Dan and Damien 'Im a sleepy woofter' Engelhardt



Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Video Blog #1

Hey guys,

So here is the first set of our videos! A lot more entertaining to watch than just read.

This one was during my first 4 hours in New Zealand. We had to immediately drive down from Auckland as soon as I had stepped off the plane (9 hour drive) so was pretty tired. This, however, helped keep me awake and was about 3 hours into the drive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2GFX5vFVX8

Wellington


Walking downtown for the first time soaking in the atmosphere of the rugby world cup. All people wanted to do was talk about rugby which was fine with me!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCo_54dVNNM


Te Papa Museum


This was a fantastic museum, it had loads of exhibitions on the creation of New Zealand and the wildlife around it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwEFp6gDMas


Cultural Moari Dance


This was on the 4th floor of the Te Papa museum and was honestly pretty scary. This video was only a little bit of the whole show...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7RwO_e_9f5c


Learning the Haka


Damien was "kind" enough to let me be the one to go through the rigors of learning the All Black 'haka'. It's a calling to the ancestors to give the warrior strength for the battle. Now, I fully appreciate and respect this tradition, I think it is one of the most electrifying things I have ever seen. However, trying to teach it to me surely defeats the object of the 'haka' in trying to intimidate....you'll see what I mean.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5hWRe6Yf5c


Performing the Haka


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPe6HUPZEGE


South African Team in the Hotel


We were just sitting in the foyer waiting for our room to be ready...then the Boka team walks through! Pretty exciting stuff, although we seriously considered setting off the fire alarm at 3am "by accident" of course.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtU8KpiBVZg


Pre-Match Buildup


I can't believe we lost this game...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rib-94MMMWE


Wales v South Africa


I still can't believe we lost this game...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyBSDqt-ess


More videos to follow!


Dan and Damien 'High Priestess' Engelhardt

Sunday, September 11, 2011

"What are you doing?" "What AM I doing?" - Dan 'Kevin Bacon' Jenkins

So here we are, the first match in Wales' all conquering bid to become world champions. We all know it will happen and that these 'games' are just formalities, pleasantries if you will, to allow New Zealanders to party like a Welshman at a sheep convention... or a New Zealander at a sheep convention... or sheep... at a sheep convention.

At the moment im sitting in the Intercontinental hotel in Wellington. This is the same hotel as the South African team, so (of course) I've spent most of the time chilling out with the "lads" in the foyer. Its such a cool environment to sit down in...watching players come and go and literally having them sit down next to us to watch Scotland v Romania. Percy Montgomery chanted 'Wales, Wales' at me. Now, while I appreciate that this was probably meant in a funny condescending way it still made me almost pass out with excitement.

For those that do not really know rugby, its like that justin(e) bieber being punched in the face. Its slightly wrong but yet so cool!

I have to say though, the atmosphere here is incredible. Nights out watching games has been phenomenal, you just cannot understand how much they love their rugby out here until you see it yourself.

I shall try and upload some pics and videos soon so you can get a small taste of how much culture there is here, not only NZ culture but also every other nation taking part in this tournament.

Now I'm going to go get ready for the game...

Dan and Damien 'Thunderthighs' Engelhardt

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Second Days - written by Damien 'Damo' Engelhardt

Driving around Wellington in a plumbers van is hard. Too many hills and too few plumber parking permits.

We stayed at a hostel on our first night, but we couldn't stay there the rest of the weekend as prices sky rocketed. So we stayed at the Rydges hotel for free with the Welsh team. Gonna have breakfast with them now. Shane Willliams, James Hook and that. Wicked.

The tournament kicked off with the most incredible opening ceremony, maybe ever. It made the Olympic Opening Ceremony look like a messy Halloween party put on by a bunch of drunk eight-year-olds.

And then the first match... ahh. Finally, rugby. Rugby rugby rugby. This is gonna be sick.

GO ARGENTINA. BEAT THEM BLOODY ENGLISH BAS%£@ARDS!!

Friday, September 9, 2011

First Days - written by Dan "Dan" Jenkins

Hello everyone!

I am currently writing to you from a lovely little bar in Wellington. Extremely tired still from the ridiculous journey over here, 30 hours travelling then another 10 hours from Auckland to Wellington. I know that reading is a chore for most of my friends so i shall keep these written blog updates short and sweet. I appreciate that it is a lot more entertaining to see our little blog videos, so shall try and upload them as soon as possible. Funny points/cool things so far:

We are travelling around in a plumber van. Bedford Plumbers and Gas.

Note for the gentlemen reading:

Kiwi girls are pretty

Thanks guys and will write again soon

Daniel and Damien "Im a douche" Engelhardt
.


Thursday, September 8, 2011

The Next Step - THE NEW BLOG

I have left Africa after almost 5 months there. It has been more educational than any class I could have taken or book that I could have read (except, perhaps, Jared Diamond’s ‘Guns, Germs and Steel’… read it). Rather than dwell on what I’ll miss, and what I won’t, I’d rather just tell you my next step.


RUGBY WORLD CUP 2011.


Dan Jenkins (round of applause ladies and gents) and I (louder round of applause, maybe some cheering) have been planning this trip for almost 18 months, and talking about it as a possibility for over two years. Here’s the low down:


It takes place in New Zealand from September 9th until October 23rd. Dan and I will be touring the country for its entirety. We will be on the North Island for the first 25-ish days during the ‘group stages’. In that time, we’re seeing eleven rugby matches. We picked the matches based on our team (WA-LES! WA-LES! WA-LES!) and on which parts of the island we wanted to visit. We’re touring around in a van. After the group matches, we’re heading to the South Island for three weeks before rocking back up to Auckland for the final.
It’s going to be the most mind-boggling, fun-loving, liver-testing, nature-discovering, rugby-filled seven weeks, maybe of our lives.


And you get to read about it RIGHT HERE.


This blog will, for seven weeks, be known as:

DAN AND DAMO’S RIDICULOUS, RAUCOUS, RELATIVELY RISKY, RANT pRONE, RESISTANCE (is futile), WROUGHT iRON, RESPECTABLE, RAVING, ROTARY RUGBY BLOG!!

New Zealand’s 2011 Rugby World Cup through the eyes of two Welsh supporters on tour. Expect astute match analysis, unbiased predictions, fragmented recollections of nights out, rundowns on tourist attractions (and attractive tourists…hey hey!) and more for seven weeks of oh-my-god-it’s-really-finally-here Rugby World Cup fun.

Thanks for reading!

Monday, September 5, 2011

Kruger, Quissico, Tofo


My last two weekends in Africa were pretty fun. The first weekend, I went to Kruger Park, which is a huge game reserve in South Africa. I and four friends rented a car in Maputo and drove to the park.  Inside, we were allowed (as everyone is, we’re not special or anything) to drive around all day look for and at animals. It was great! We didn’t see any cats, but we saw tons of elephants, giraffes, a few rhino, hippo, lots of birds (my favorite’s the franklin) and other stuff. We saw these two giraffes engaged in what looked like a slow motion battle. They would take turns in slowly swinging their heads at one another. We were thoroughly confused as they did this for 10 minutes. Then one tried to mount the other… and we understood. They didn’t… uhh… complete the act, as another giraffe came over and was watching. Giraffes are very private creatures… though they didn’t mind us watching apparently.

Another time whilst watching giraffes, I was leaning forward to take a picture of the beautiful creatures, the tranquil country-side – trying to capture this moment of pure nature… and I honked the horn. I turned red, my friends laughed and berated me, and all animals in a 10-mile radius sprinted away. Good one Damien (this happened three times actually).

Here are some pictures!

Crazy bird.

Elephant in the road

Franklin, aka best bird ever (doesn't really fly much)

Giraffe courtship

Warthog - my friend described it as the punk rocker of the bush

The following weekend, I went to Quissico with some friends to see the annual Timbila festival. The Timbila is a xylophone-esque instrument. Many Timbilas are played at the same time, with varying rhythms. It was pretty cool to see… though I couldn’t really discern a tune. Many Mozambicans flock to the festival however… and they all get absolutely battered. Apparently it’s known quite well in Mozambique as a premier drinking festival. Quite a good atmosphere. However, we were 6 and couldn’t find a place to stay. So we went and asked the local governor if there was a place where we could make a fire and sleep outside. He was very kind and brought us to an enclosure behind a government building. We made a fire and tried to keep warm in our sleeping bags through the night while sleeping outside. It was not a pleasant night, but a pretty cool experience!

The following day I went by myself to Tofo. Tofo is a premier diving sight where you can see Giant Manta Rays, Humpback Whales and Whale Sharks. I went on a dive and did not see Mantas unfortunately, but on the way to the dive site (by boat) we saw a bunch of Humpbacks. They were pretty huge and pretty cool. Tofo’s also got some good surfing usually, but this particular weekend was quite bad.

Thanks for reading!

Crossing from Moz to SA - the difference an imaginary line makes


I had two experiences that shocked me – driving from Maputo, Mozambique, to Nelspruit, South Africa; and flying from Maputo to JoBerg, South Africa.

Driving on the Mozambican side, the earth is dry. It is dust, it is sand, it is red. There are farm plots (called ‘Machambas’) that are owned by individuals. They are mostly disorganized small plots with maize, some vegetables, and maybe a cash crop or two like cotton or sesame. They don’t have irrigation, tractors or bulls even, they are worked on by individuals (often husband and wife will have separate plots) and are generally subsistence farming, or at best, the produce is sold at local markets for a little cash.

When you cross the border, everything changes.

The fields are vast and organized. They are in rows with huge irrigation systems. They grow a diverse range of crops – maize, oranges, potatoes, cotton. There are tractors. The exact same soil produces umpteen times more on one side of the border than the other. It’s incredible.

The feel of the society is different as well. On the SA side, it is much less informal – the roads don’t have potholes that you have to avoid (in Moz driving, I swear, it’s like trying to avoid bananas and turtle shells on Mario Kart); people don’t wait on the side of the roads for lifts as much; you don’t see nearly as many children out of school; informal selling on the side of the roads is almost non-existent. And then you get to Nelspruit, a small-ish SA city. Everything is paved; all the buildings are brick; everything works; everything has a price; cars don’t have smashed windscreens (in Moz, if your windscreen is smashed, you keep driving); children and women aren’t sprawled in the street; in Moz the streets are crowded with unemployed or casually employed men; there are toilets for the public; people sell clothes and shoes on the street in Moz, in SA there are shopping malls. It’s just incredible and, for me, was absolutely overwhelming. I didn’t like the structure, the neatness – I felt like I was a (dirty) elephant in a china shop. Walking into a shopping mall made me a bit nauseous – here was all this stuff that I didn’t want or need. Here was all this wealth being poured into a clean marble floor while an hour away someone was starving. Since I’d gotten used to Mozambique, it felt very wrong somehow. Not wrong in a judgmental sort of way (as in, not ‘you SA shouldn’t be doing this’) just very unnerving and devastating.

One time, I was walking with a friend back from a party. It was his 2nd night in the country. He was a little drunk and asked ‘do you think it’s alright to pee here?’ motioning towards a tree in the middle of the pavement. I said ‘Unfortunately… yes’. But once you get used to that atmosphere (I didn’t ever pee on the side of the road though… I learnt my lesson freshman year hehe) it seems very strange how organized and ‘civil’ the streets of a developing country are.

The difference from the air is almost as astounding. On the Moz side, it looks like the earth isn’t being used. On the SA side it looks like it’s all being used. You can see the organized crops with their irrigation circles; you can see the urban planning of cities (as in, cities in SA are planned, rather than a free-for-all); you can see the mines and the power stations (which are just incredible – for ten minutes of flying near JoBerg, you see nothing but power station after power station. They are built right next to the coal mines and provide electricity for most of SA, as well as Maputo).

What struck me the most about these experiences is how an invisible border becomes highly visible with the contrast between the two countries.


Thanks for reading!

Poverty


The question of ‘what is poverty’ is one that I have thought about a lot whilst in Africa. On one hand, the lack of wealth of the two countries I spent time in seems to be directly correlated to their names starting with the letter ‘M’. Coincidence? Definitely.  More importantly, the poverty is loud on the surface level appearance of villages and cities – the city roads all have potholes, the sidewalks are as consistent as the big contract decisions the Cubs make (consistently bad that is), and the streets periodically smell like urine and/or feces.  It’s even more apparent in villages where you can tell the relative wealth of people in a community by the materials used for their houses:

-         -  Bricks
-          - Concrete blocks
-          - Mud bricks
-          - Weaved reeds filled with rocks (think of the game Connect 4 – the blue ‘holder’ is the reed mesh, the chips are the rocks)
-          - Reed huts

But do these deficiencies truly represent what is lacking? The cliché goes, the people in the street seem to be happier than those in developed countries.  There are always smiles about, roaring laughter, games, people say hello to everyone, men and women walk around holding hands, holding arms; it’s refreshing. Do rolling power cuts in cities, or no power at all in villages, represent poverty?

While I wouldn’t be able to give a comprehensive list of what ‘poverty’ consists of (could anybody?) a few 
points have stuck out to me during my four and half months working in development in Africa.

-          Sanitation. The level is astounding. In some communities I visited, people had only just learned to use a latrine; to wash their hands afterward defecating and before eating; to clean wounds; to go to the hospital if someone is sick. The idea of a ‘drying rack’ for dishes was new – before, the plates were either not washed, or if they were they were left in the dirt until they were used again. On Mozambique Island there is a lack of toilet facilities, so certain streets are completely covered in human excrement.

-         Health. The statistics are devastating – life expectancy (depending on the stat) varies from 40 to 45 years old. Almost half of the population is under 18. In parts of Mozambique, the HIV rate is as high as 20% - which is good compared to countries like Botswana and Swaziland. Malaria and cholera during natural disasters routinely kill people. Malnutrition means that entire districts will suffer from stunted growth.

-          Food security. In my first week in Malawi, I was told by a Peace Corps volunteer that in her area the rains had been ‘bad’ (come at the wrong time or not come at all) and that people would die of starvation. That was a fact that the community acknowledged. This situation is not uncommon.

-          Education. This is definitively an aspect of poverty, but I find it hard to quantify. The reason being that education deemed necessary in developed countries is, in many cases I believe, a misplaced notion when applied to developing countries. Why should ‘literacy’ necessarily be a determining factor of education? In some communities in Mozambique, there is no use for Portuguese, and the local language isn’t written. In some communities, education regarding farming practices, and learning different techniques to deal with natural disasters might be more important. Don’t get me wrong – one of the defining characteristics of poverty is the lack of education; I’m just not sure the traditional methods of measuring its level or its impact are always appropriate.

-          Family planning/population growth. One of the greatest challenges for families is feeding every member. This is, ironically (and devastatingly) worsened by development – parents used to have 6 or 7 children, with the expectation that 1 or 2 would die before they were adults and could help take care of the parents, meaning that parents would ‘only’ have to provide for 4 or 5 children. With better pre-natal care, better access to vaccinations, increased awareness of nutrition etc, infant mortality rates have dropped. The extra mouth or two mouths to feed means less food for everyone in general, increased likelihood that children will be kept from going to school, etc. Family planning is struggling to take hold in many communities. The main reasons are that men often see the number of children as a sign of virility; fear of family planning methods (for instance, in one community I visited, the women believed that if a woman took birth control, then stopped, then had a child, that that woman would die; in another community, it was believed that any birth control made a woman permanently sterile); and difficulty of access to family planning techniques.

-          Climate change. I spent most of my time with Save the Children working in their climate-change related projects. The poorest of the world are the most susceptible to climate shocks such as earthquakes, floods and droughts. Whether or not you believe in global warming (I can’t believe I have to add that caveat – go GOP!) increasing the poor’s adaptive capacity to climate shocks – that is, the ability with which the poor can change their practices to adapt to increased droughts, or floods etc – is imperative as climate-related disasters devastate communities and countries. The floods in Mozambique in 2000/2001 ruined the country’s already fragile economy – not to mention killed thousands of people.

As I mentioned, this is not a comprehensive list, and these points aren’t exactly groundbreaking. However, the reality of how low a level of development is achieved by many communities, in these fields, gives some perspective on what development maybe should concentrate on. For me, concentrating on economic projects such as micro-loans and community organizing schemes seem to doomed to limited success from the start because of all the lacking conditions of stable, healthy society in the first place. Though these schemes have their value and their place, they should be part of a holistic approach targeting specific communities and areas.

Like I said, this is nothing groundbreaking, but seeing this in the flesh is different to reading about it – you all will just have to go to Moz to get the real impression!

Thanks for reading!