Saturday, September 10, 2011

Second Days - written by Damien 'Damo' Engelhardt

Driving around Wellington in a plumbers van is hard. Too many hills and too few plumber parking permits.

We stayed at a hostel on our first night, but we couldn't stay there the rest of the weekend as prices sky rocketed. So we stayed at the Rydges hotel for free with the Welsh team. Gonna have breakfast with them now. Shane Willliams, James Hook and that. Wicked.

The tournament kicked off with the most incredible opening ceremony, maybe ever. It made the Olympic Opening Ceremony look like a messy Halloween party put on by a bunch of drunk eight-year-olds.

And then the first match... ahh. Finally, rugby. Rugby rugby rugby. This is gonna be sick.

GO ARGENTINA. BEAT THEM BLOODY ENGLISH BAS%£@ARDS!!

Friday, September 9, 2011

First Days - written by Dan "Dan" Jenkins

Hello everyone!

I am currently writing to you from a lovely little bar in Wellington. Extremely tired still from the ridiculous journey over here, 30 hours travelling then another 10 hours from Auckland to Wellington. I know that reading is a chore for most of my friends so i shall keep these written blog updates short and sweet. I appreciate that it is a lot more entertaining to see our little blog videos, so shall try and upload them as soon as possible. Funny points/cool things so far:

We are travelling around in a plumber van. Bedford Plumbers and Gas.

Note for the gentlemen reading:

Kiwi girls are pretty

Thanks guys and will write again soon

Daniel and Damien "Im a douche" Engelhardt
.


Thursday, September 8, 2011

The Next Step - THE NEW BLOG

I have left Africa after almost 5 months there. It has been more educational than any class I could have taken or book that I could have read (except, perhaps, Jared Diamond’s ‘Guns, Germs and Steel’… read it). Rather than dwell on what I’ll miss, and what I won’t, I’d rather just tell you my next step.


RUGBY WORLD CUP 2011.


Dan Jenkins (round of applause ladies and gents) and I (louder round of applause, maybe some cheering) have been planning this trip for almost 18 months, and talking about it as a possibility for over two years. Here’s the low down:


It takes place in New Zealand from September 9th until October 23rd. Dan and I will be touring the country for its entirety. We will be on the North Island for the first 25-ish days during the ‘group stages’. In that time, we’re seeing eleven rugby matches. We picked the matches based on our team (WA-LES! WA-LES! WA-LES!) and on which parts of the island we wanted to visit. We’re touring around in a van. After the group matches, we’re heading to the South Island for three weeks before rocking back up to Auckland for the final.
It’s going to be the most mind-boggling, fun-loving, liver-testing, nature-discovering, rugby-filled seven weeks, maybe of our lives.


And you get to read about it RIGHT HERE.


This blog will, for seven weeks, be known as:

DAN AND DAMO’S RIDICULOUS, RAUCOUS, RELATIVELY RISKY, RANT pRONE, RESISTANCE (is futile), WROUGHT iRON, RESPECTABLE, RAVING, ROTARY RUGBY BLOG!!

New Zealand’s 2011 Rugby World Cup through the eyes of two Welsh supporters on tour. Expect astute match analysis, unbiased predictions, fragmented recollections of nights out, rundowns on tourist attractions (and attractive tourists…hey hey!) and more for seven weeks of oh-my-god-it’s-really-finally-here Rugby World Cup fun.

Thanks for reading!

Monday, September 5, 2011

Kruger, Quissico, Tofo


My last two weekends in Africa were pretty fun. The first weekend, I went to Kruger Park, which is a huge game reserve in South Africa. I and four friends rented a car in Maputo and drove to the park.  Inside, we were allowed (as everyone is, we’re not special or anything) to drive around all day look for and at animals. It was great! We didn’t see any cats, but we saw tons of elephants, giraffes, a few rhino, hippo, lots of birds (my favorite’s the franklin) and other stuff. We saw these two giraffes engaged in what looked like a slow motion battle. They would take turns in slowly swinging their heads at one another. We were thoroughly confused as they did this for 10 minutes. Then one tried to mount the other… and we understood. They didn’t… uhh… complete the act, as another giraffe came over and was watching. Giraffes are very private creatures… though they didn’t mind us watching apparently.

Another time whilst watching giraffes, I was leaning forward to take a picture of the beautiful creatures, the tranquil country-side – trying to capture this moment of pure nature… and I honked the horn. I turned red, my friends laughed and berated me, and all animals in a 10-mile radius sprinted away. Good one Damien (this happened three times actually).

Here are some pictures!

Crazy bird.

Elephant in the road

Franklin, aka best bird ever (doesn't really fly much)

Giraffe courtship

Warthog - my friend described it as the punk rocker of the bush

The following weekend, I went to Quissico with some friends to see the annual Timbila festival. The Timbila is a xylophone-esque instrument. Many Timbilas are played at the same time, with varying rhythms. It was pretty cool to see… though I couldn’t really discern a tune. Many Mozambicans flock to the festival however… and they all get absolutely battered. Apparently it’s known quite well in Mozambique as a premier drinking festival. Quite a good atmosphere. However, we were 6 and couldn’t find a place to stay. So we went and asked the local governor if there was a place where we could make a fire and sleep outside. He was very kind and brought us to an enclosure behind a government building. We made a fire and tried to keep warm in our sleeping bags through the night while sleeping outside. It was not a pleasant night, but a pretty cool experience!

The following day I went by myself to Tofo. Tofo is a premier diving sight where you can see Giant Manta Rays, Humpback Whales and Whale Sharks. I went on a dive and did not see Mantas unfortunately, but on the way to the dive site (by boat) we saw a bunch of Humpbacks. They were pretty huge and pretty cool. Tofo’s also got some good surfing usually, but this particular weekend was quite bad.

Thanks for reading!

Crossing from Moz to SA - the difference an imaginary line makes


I had two experiences that shocked me – driving from Maputo, Mozambique, to Nelspruit, South Africa; and flying from Maputo to JoBerg, South Africa.

Driving on the Mozambican side, the earth is dry. It is dust, it is sand, it is red. There are farm plots (called ‘Machambas’) that are owned by individuals. They are mostly disorganized small plots with maize, some vegetables, and maybe a cash crop or two like cotton or sesame. They don’t have irrigation, tractors or bulls even, they are worked on by individuals (often husband and wife will have separate plots) and are generally subsistence farming, or at best, the produce is sold at local markets for a little cash.

When you cross the border, everything changes.

The fields are vast and organized. They are in rows with huge irrigation systems. They grow a diverse range of crops – maize, oranges, potatoes, cotton. There are tractors. The exact same soil produces umpteen times more on one side of the border than the other. It’s incredible.

The feel of the society is different as well. On the SA side, it is much less informal – the roads don’t have potholes that you have to avoid (in Moz driving, I swear, it’s like trying to avoid bananas and turtle shells on Mario Kart); people don’t wait on the side of the roads for lifts as much; you don’t see nearly as many children out of school; informal selling on the side of the roads is almost non-existent. And then you get to Nelspruit, a small-ish SA city. Everything is paved; all the buildings are brick; everything works; everything has a price; cars don’t have smashed windscreens (in Moz, if your windscreen is smashed, you keep driving); children and women aren’t sprawled in the street; in Moz the streets are crowded with unemployed or casually employed men; there are toilets for the public; people sell clothes and shoes on the street in Moz, in SA there are shopping malls. It’s just incredible and, for me, was absolutely overwhelming. I didn’t like the structure, the neatness – I felt like I was a (dirty) elephant in a china shop. Walking into a shopping mall made me a bit nauseous – here was all this stuff that I didn’t want or need. Here was all this wealth being poured into a clean marble floor while an hour away someone was starving. Since I’d gotten used to Mozambique, it felt very wrong somehow. Not wrong in a judgmental sort of way (as in, not ‘you SA shouldn’t be doing this’) just very unnerving and devastating.

One time, I was walking with a friend back from a party. It was his 2nd night in the country. He was a little drunk and asked ‘do you think it’s alright to pee here?’ motioning towards a tree in the middle of the pavement. I said ‘Unfortunately… yes’. But once you get used to that atmosphere (I didn’t ever pee on the side of the road though… I learnt my lesson freshman year hehe) it seems very strange how organized and ‘civil’ the streets of a developing country are.

The difference from the air is almost as astounding. On the Moz side, it looks like the earth isn’t being used. On the SA side it looks like it’s all being used. You can see the organized crops with their irrigation circles; you can see the urban planning of cities (as in, cities in SA are planned, rather than a free-for-all); you can see the mines and the power stations (which are just incredible – for ten minutes of flying near JoBerg, you see nothing but power station after power station. They are built right next to the coal mines and provide electricity for most of SA, as well as Maputo).

What struck me the most about these experiences is how an invisible border becomes highly visible with the contrast between the two countries.


Thanks for reading!

Poverty


The question of ‘what is poverty’ is one that I have thought about a lot whilst in Africa. On one hand, the lack of wealth of the two countries I spent time in seems to be directly correlated to their names starting with the letter ‘M’. Coincidence? Definitely.  More importantly, the poverty is loud on the surface level appearance of villages and cities – the city roads all have potholes, the sidewalks are as consistent as the big contract decisions the Cubs make (consistently bad that is), and the streets periodically smell like urine and/or feces.  It’s even more apparent in villages where you can tell the relative wealth of people in a community by the materials used for their houses:

-         -  Bricks
-          - Concrete blocks
-          - Mud bricks
-          - Weaved reeds filled with rocks (think of the game Connect 4 – the blue ‘holder’ is the reed mesh, the chips are the rocks)
-          - Reed huts

But do these deficiencies truly represent what is lacking? The cliché goes, the people in the street seem to be happier than those in developed countries.  There are always smiles about, roaring laughter, games, people say hello to everyone, men and women walk around holding hands, holding arms; it’s refreshing. Do rolling power cuts in cities, or no power at all in villages, represent poverty?

While I wouldn’t be able to give a comprehensive list of what ‘poverty’ consists of (could anybody?) a few 
points have stuck out to me during my four and half months working in development in Africa.

-          Sanitation. The level is astounding. In some communities I visited, people had only just learned to use a latrine; to wash their hands afterward defecating and before eating; to clean wounds; to go to the hospital if someone is sick. The idea of a ‘drying rack’ for dishes was new – before, the plates were either not washed, or if they were they were left in the dirt until they were used again. On Mozambique Island there is a lack of toilet facilities, so certain streets are completely covered in human excrement.

-         Health. The statistics are devastating – life expectancy (depending on the stat) varies from 40 to 45 years old. Almost half of the population is under 18. In parts of Mozambique, the HIV rate is as high as 20% - which is good compared to countries like Botswana and Swaziland. Malaria and cholera during natural disasters routinely kill people. Malnutrition means that entire districts will suffer from stunted growth.

-          Food security. In my first week in Malawi, I was told by a Peace Corps volunteer that in her area the rains had been ‘bad’ (come at the wrong time or not come at all) and that people would die of starvation. That was a fact that the community acknowledged. This situation is not uncommon.

-          Education. This is definitively an aspect of poverty, but I find it hard to quantify. The reason being that education deemed necessary in developed countries is, in many cases I believe, a misplaced notion when applied to developing countries. Why should ‘literacy’ necessarily be a determining factor of education? In some communities in Mozambique, there is no use for Portuguese, and the local language isn’t written. In some communities, education regarding farming practices, and learning different techniques to deal with natural disasters might be more important. Don’t get me wrong – one of the defining characteristics of poverty is the lack of education; I’m just not sure the traditional methods of measuring its level or its impact are always appropriate.

-          Family planning/population growth. One of the greatest challenges for families is feeding every member. This is, ironically (and devastatingly) worsened by development – parents used to have 6 or 7 children, with the expectation that 1 or 2 would die before they were adults and could help take care of the parents, meaning that parents would ‘only’ have to provide for 4 or 5 children. With better pre-natal care, better access to vaccinations, increased awareness of nutrition etc, infant mortality rates have dropped. The extra mouth or two mouths to feed means less food for everyone in general, increased likelihood that children will be kept from going to school, etc. Family planning is struggling to take hold in many communities. The main reasons are that men often see the number of children as a sign of virility; fear of family planning methods (for instance, in one community I visited, the women believed that if a woman took birth control, then stopped, then had a child, that that woman would die; in another community, it was believed that any birth control made a woman permanently sterile); and difficulty of access to family planning techniques.

-          Climate change. I spent most of my time with Save the Children working in their climate-change related projects. The poorest of the world are the most susceptible to climate shocks such as earthquakes, floods and droughts. Whether or not you believe in global warming (I can’t believe I have to add that caveat – go GOP!) increasing the poor’s adaptive capacity to climate shocks – that is, the ability with which the poor can change their practices to adapt to increased droughts, or floods etc – is imperative as climate-related disasters devastate communities and countries. The floods in Mozambique in 2000/2001 ruined the country’s already fragile economy – not to mention killed thousands of people.

As I mentioned, this is not a comprehensive list, and these points aren’t exactly groundbreaking. However, the reality of how low a level of development is achieved by many communities, in these fields, gives some perspective on what development maybe should concentrate on. For me, concentrating on economic projects such as micro-loans and community organizing schemes seem to doomed to limited success from the start because of all the lacking conditions of stable, healthy society in the first place. Though these schemes have their value and their place, they should be part of a holistic approach targeting specific communities and areas.

Like I said, this is nothing groundbreaking, but seeing this in the flesh is different to reading about it – you all will just have to go to Moz to get the real impression!

Thanks for reading!

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Yo!

So, the last few weeks have been absolutely MAD. Totally. Therefore, I'm running a little behind on writing up everything I wanted to. I'm going to write everything up on my journey out of Mozambique, starting Saturday, as I'll have about two days of travel in planes.  Woo! Here are the headings though of the next blog posts, just to tickle your imagination for a minute or less:

Poverty - what it looks like
Crossing the border - the imaginary line between Mozambique and South Africa
Development, Climate and the Future
Getting Robbed - tick it off the bucket list
Kruger, Tofo and Quissico
My Next Step

Thanks for reading!